Hanimex Hanimar 135mm f / 2.8 lens disassembly and maintenance

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In general, the complexity of maintaining these lenses depends on which factory the lens was ordered from and what value it had on the market. Abroad, the lenses of Soligor, Vivitar, Hanimex and some other resellers, for the most part, are called "garbage bin" or "plug for 10 bucks." Rightfully so. Hanimex is a reseller that traded cheap lenses all over the world. The headquarters, as far as I understand, is located in Australia.

Hanimex 135mm f / 2.8 is a very simple mechanical lens. It has wide gaps between body parts, and seems to be programmed to get dirty from the inside. Moreover, it can pick up dust immediately after the first use on the street. It is compensated by the simplicity of disassembly and maintenance. All parts are large, and adjustment after assembly is done by moving and countering the front lens gluing. Sharpness is adjusted at infinity and then tested over the entire focusing range. It is clear that the values ​​on the case are approximate, and most likely there will be no correspondences on the scale without a clamped diaphragm, but the very fact of the simplicity of disassembly and subsequent adjustment pleases.

The lens consists of 4 large parts - a back with a pressure diaphragm mechanism, a middle part (a helicoid with a diaphragm inside), a decorative cover for the front lens housing with a built-in metal hood, and a rear lens holder with, which is driven by a helicoid and moves back and forth.

Disassembly starts from the back, and the rest of the case is easily and naturally removed after unscrewing / loosening the case screws from the outside. Next, wash out the sand, apply lubricant. We clean the glasses with Lenspin, old-fashioned methods, or we combine the old-fashioned method with preliminary washing in isopropyl alcohol. And we collect it back.

The main problem of this lens after dust is the primitive device of the diaphragm pressure unit, which is made in the form of a complex curved plate with a huge protrusion at the end. The very protrusion that kicks the diaphragm is very long and very thin. Over time, it loses its properties and bends so that, although it sets the diaphragm in motion, it is no longer as vigorous as before. The task after cleaning and assembling the lens is to bend this protrusion in the way it would seem to more or less match the numbers on the aperture ring. You can, of course, suffer and reconcile everything using a digital camera (focusing on the readings with a working 135mm lens at f / 6.3, for example), as I did, but not at all. After making sure that the values ​​are approximately / exactly true, the glass can be collected.

To prevent the plate from mowing again after adjustment, it is better not to leave the lens with an open aperture for long-term storage. It is on the open plate that the plate undergoes heavy loads, since the adjustment of the entire diaphragm range implies the presence of a significant force on the plate in this particular position. If you set it up so that when it is open it will press close, without a margin of effort, then at medium values ​​the diaphragm will be in free flight and will live its own life.

Don't break. All the best.


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