Sometimes there is no real need for disassembly other than curiosity and more experience. The versions with Vivitar 80-200mm lenses have some very interesting mechanics, so I decided to do a test disassembly to better understand how to work with these types of lenses if a real repair or cleaning is needed.

 

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A typical initial step is to unscrew the 5 bolts from the mounting ring and pull it out. The lens also has calibration brass spacers.

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I am surprised that the diaphragm gear lever is connected to the bearing and moves very easily. In case I use this type of lens for detail in the future, there are a few dozen metal balls that can be used as clicky aperture modifiers, like the one I made for the 7Artisans 35mm F1.2.

This Vivitar has spring-loaded ball diaphragm locks, so keep an eye on it as you remove the diaphragm ring.

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Three black bolts are located on the cylinder with the focal length scale. Unscrew them and slide the cylinder under the focus-zoom ring.

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Then unscrew the three silver screws on the edge of the aluminum cylinder and pull it out.

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Now the lens looks like a big grenade, and it needs special care. Loosen the four silver screws and pull out the aperture frame module.

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Unscrew the entire rear lens barrel to access the aperture blades.

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Then unscrew the lens barrel from the other side. At this stage, if something is wrong with the aperture, it can be completely disassembled separately from the lens.

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Several shots of the lens at different zoom levels.

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Now on the front ring with the lens marking, find a small black bolt, unscrew it, and then unscrew this ring.

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Mark the location of the front lens module, then unscrew it.

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Bend the rubber ring of the handle and unscrew the two bolts with plastic sliders.

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Then locate and unscrew the small black bolt next to the green "7 feet" mark. Unscrew the focus distance ring from the zoom ring. I use acetone again to melt the factory glue.

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Now find two more bolts on the edge of the silver cylinder. Unscrew them.

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You now have easy access to the internal zoom core, which can be taken apart and re-lubricated. I stop at this and assemble the lens in the reverse order.

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