A typical initial step is to unscrew the 5 bolts from the mounting ring and pull it out. The lens also has calibration brass spacers.
I am surprised that the diaphragm gear lever is connected to the bearing and moves very easily. In case I use this type of lens for detail in the future, there are a few dozen metal balls that can be used as clicky aperture modifiers, like the one I made for the 7Artisans 35mm F1.2.
This Vivitar has spring-loaded ball diaphragm locks, so keep an eye on it as you remove the diaphragm ring.
Three black bolts are located on the cylinder with the focal length scale. Unscrew them and slide the cylinder under the focus-zoom ring.
Then unscrew the three silver screws on the edge of the aluminum cylinder and pull it out.
Now the lens looks like a big grenade, and it needs special care. Loosen the four silver screws and pull out the aperture frame module.
Unscrew the entire rear lens barrel to access the aperture blades.
Then unscrew the lens barrel from the other side. At this stage, if something is wrong with the aperture, it can be completely disassembled separately from the lens.
Several shots of the lens at different zoom levels.
Now on the front ring with the lens marking, find a small black bolt, unscrew it, and then unscrew this ring.
Mark the location of the front lens module, then unscrew it.
Bend the rubber ring of the handle and unscrew the two bolts with plastic sliders.
Then locate and unscrew the small black bolt next to the green "7 feet" mark. Unscrew the focus distance ring from the zoom ring. I use acetone again to melt the factory glue.
Now find two more bolts on the edge of the silver cylinder. Unscrew them.
You now have easy access to the internal zoom core, which can be taken apart and re-lubricated. I stop at this and assemble the lens in the reverse order.