How to learn to take pictures without SMS and registration? Photography is a special kind of creativity that allows you to freeze time, thereby capturing for yourself or for future generations, both your own thoughts and vision, and expressing your own “I”.
How to learn photography from scratch
To learn how to take pictures, the first and only recommendation at the beginning is to read the instructions for the camera. In general, the instruction for any camera is suitable, since the same terms are found in any instruction. For a century, the principle has not changed much, it's just that now we use digital technologies instead of film or plates with chemistry for work.
Even if nothing is clear, it is worth reading this little book in order to make it easier to learn later and ask questions. There may be many questions at first. For example, I will offer to read the instruction in Russian from this review. This is a Canon EOS film camera manual.. The narrative is rather concise - in film cameras there were much fewer functions, and they were aimed precisely at shooting. All of them have not changed in any way since those times, and migrated to the figure. In my personal experience, the most common and most popular first cameras in 90% of cases are Canon and learn to photograph with them.
To learn how to photograph, you need to start with good, as it is now called, with “professional” equipment. From cameras with a full frame sensor. In my 15 years of photography, I have come to this conclusion. Because inexpensive equipment can generally discourage further photography, as it often gives unsatisfactory image quality in most scenes (shooting running children with a whale lens on a cheap camera is another quest). But I understand perfectly well that not everyone at the start can have the funds for good equipment.
If we want to learn photography, then we can borrow a camera from a friend, or rent it (large cities), or ... find something not very ancient on Avito. Of the not very ancient, but having excellent, close to modern functionality, you can safely name the following cameras, and the models are newer than them:
- Canon 550D, Canon 600D - DSLRs that were popular at one time, the purchase of which from the hands will extremely please the previous owner, because DSLRs are a thing of the past. Cost from $30 with kit lens. Pretty easy to use cameras with everything you need on board. Low liquidity in the market. Worth buying if it's very cheap. Suitable old SLR lenses of the USSR and Europe, through thin adapter (a good option, in fact, if you want to try the old optics in action)
- Nikon D3100, D5100 and others - very distinctive, but user-friendly. The menu is as close as possible to compacts and cheaper models. It is easier to learn, of course, on it, since the menu is equipped with graphics, which is not found in any other camera. Low liquidity in the market. Worth buying if it's very cheap. With a small caveat, you can put not so common USSR lenses under Nikon F (from Kyiv cameras). However, cameras are not friends with manual optics (yes, I think they are not), and you won’t be able to save money on this.
- Fujifilm X-series - Cameras are very easy to use. The control is focused on the body, as close as possible to film cameras, and if you already have experience in operating film cameras, then a good option for a mirrorless camera for creativity, which has many film profiles and gives a finished picture that does not require further processing in 99% of cases. In addition, they are stylized as retro. High liquidity in the secondary market, primarily due to simplicity and design. Models with interchangeable optics are omnivores in terms of optics installed through an adapter.
- Sony Nex - the first nexes are quite common, a kit with two lenses costs an average of $ 70-90 on Avito. Mirrorless cameras of average liquidity. In addition to relatives, any lenses are suitable through an adapter.
- Sony A7 - the first full-frame mirrorless camera with a full-format 36x24mm sensor. There are a lot of functions, it costs about $ 500 with a whale lens, but the menu is somewhat confused. Excellent image quality, including for portraits, due to the large matrix. In addition to relatives, any are suitable lenses through an adapter. Secondary liquidity is above average. If you donate 200 bucks, you can buy second version of this camera - it has good image stabilization built into the camera and eats less battery.
Based on the brief description of the cameras above, it’s better to take some now, but a mirrorless one. They are lighter, more modern, more liquid on the secondary market. Learning how to take pictures on them will be easier and faster. Why is the installation of non-native optics so often mentioned? Because, this is a good way to save cash if you want a good lens, but there is no money. Old optics is a wonderful field of experiment. It's cheap and imperfect. In trends lomography It's not the picture's perfection. It is she who engages the viewer. In general, now there are so many cameras on the market that you can take both new and used, whatever you can afford. Chasing top cameras is not worth it, especially when the future of the hobby is not clear. Prices for DSLRs start from 500 rubles.
The list above shows mainly models with little matrix. The matrix is a sensor that collects light and then converts it into an image. The larger the matrix, the better the picture. The wider the possibilities of the camera. In low light conditions, a large matrix will be an advantage, as it collects more light. And vice versa. Any matrix is suitable for a protocol picture - even in a smartphone camera. If you shoot something for insta and facebook, then the content is important, not matrices and megapixels. Here, you can not particularly bother with the cost of equipment and the size of the matrices, unless a certain specificity is pursued. In this case, it is better to rely on various techniques and techniques, framing, perspective, the correct location of objects in the frame, and so on. Many successful bloggers shoot with their smartphones. And learning how to take pictures with a smartphone is easy.
Terms currently in use:
- large format - sensor dimensions, larger than 6x6 centimeters, conditionally. Most likely, such a camera cannot be found on free sale.
- Medium format - a common frame format larger than 33x44 mm. that is, anything larger than a full-frame sensor is now commonly referred to as "medium format". In relation to the medium format - 35mm full-frame matrices are crop.
- Full frame sensor - a matrix of standard film frame sizes 36x24mm. Anything less is usually called a crop.
- Crop - a mass segment of photographic equipment. In smartphones - crop, in cheap soap dishes — crop, in cheap cameras - crop. Cropped versions of matrices, relative to the frame 36x24mm. Common crops are APS-C (1,6 times less for Canon, or 1,5 times for everyone else). In soap dishes, as a rule, there are even smaller matrices. According to the crop of the matrix, the cost of the camera also decreases. Lenses usually indicate equivalent for full frame. So, for example, the standard Canon 18-55mm IS II f/3.5-5.6 kit lens actually has a 29-90mm field of view and f/5,6-9 aperture.
Matrix size and photosensitivity sensors are directly connected. The larger sensor collects more light and has larger cells than smaller sensors. The light sensitivity of the matrices affects the image quality. Now the ISO standard is used, which allows you to evaluate the level of sensitivity of matrices in a single system. Remember those weird numbers on the tapes? And the words of the father / grandfather that now the film is in one camera for indoors, and in the other for the street? So, this is it. ISO100-400 used for shooting outdoors, and in conditions where there is enough light. ISO640 and above - for conditions in which there is not enough light. Modern cameras have maximum sensitivity ISO102400 and this is far from the limit.
Just like with film, increasing the ISO has detrimental effects on the picture. In older digital cameras, the photo turned out loose when ISO800, however, now these values are much higher. In most cases, ISO can be farmed out to the camera by setting the value CAR. With adequately functioning electronics, a modern camera with a full-frame matrix gives a good picture at all ISO values. Cameras with a smaller sensor compared to a film frame, due to the smaller sensor size, as well as closely spaced cells, have lower photosensitivity. Accordingly, their use is slightly limited, and you will have to use a tripod or flash more often for shooting. To learn how to photograph, you need to remember this moment.
On cameras, a device is often found - gate. These are curtains, or roller shutters, which dose the light passing through the lens onto the matrix. The faster the shutter speed, the more versatile the camera. For example, with a fast lens on high-speed shutters, you can shoot with fast shutter speeds during the day. Accordingly, it is better to blur the background. A very exotic situation, but nonetheless.
Dark lenses require slower and longer shutter speeds. In most consumer photographic equipment of our time excerpt limited to a ceiling of 1/4000. Faster lenses require a faster shutter speed. However, when shooting portraits, the most standard and common set of shutter speeds with a ceiling of 1/4000 second is usually enough, since the main working range is 1/30 - 1/250.
The camera mode, in which we control the shutter speed, and all other parameters are set automatically, is called "Shutter Priority". On the mode selector, these are usually letters Sv (Shutter Value) or Tv (Time Value). To avoid the effect shakers a rule is required that the minimum shutter speed will correspond to at least 1 / focal length of the lens. Subjects in motion are frozen by high shutter speeds.
The combination of aperture and shutter speed forms the exposure couple. Expopara + matrix sensitivity in modern cameras forms exposure triangle. exposure - this is the level of illumination formed by the parameters of the camera, which the matrix receives during exposure (light) and then turns into a picture. The main task of the photographer is to adjust the shutter speed and aperture to obtain the correct exposure at the current sensor sensitivity. To learn how to photograph, you need to remember this moment.
Lens is an important part of the kit. In the photographic environment, the concept of “first you take the lens, then you buy the camera for the rest” is very common. This is a thing from the film era, then there really wasn’t much difference in cameras. They were just mechanical boxes with plus or minus the same set of features. But even now, it is the lens that is responsible for the image quality in 90% of cases, and in the camera, the size of the sensor and its antiquity are more important. On a fresh camera with a small matrix, high-quality photos are better than on an old one with a large one. Technology, everything. To learn how to photograph, it is important to remember that 90% of the beauty of the frame depends on the lens.
I will say more - on a modern smartphone, photos can be obtained faster with acceptable quality for posting on the network than on an old camera. Lens - these are glasses of a certain shape, enclosed in a frame, and equipped with a focus ring (or motor) as well as a diaphragm. There are millions of optical configurations, and they are not important. To learn how to take pictures, the focal length parameter is important, which is responsible for a certain viewing angle. Lenses by focal length are conditionally divided into:
- Wide angle - greater coverage of the area of the surrounding world. These are all focal lengths up to 50 millimeters. In modern smartphones, cameras are configured to capture the equivalent of approximately 22-35 millimeters of focal length. Optimal quality, minimum distortion. Anything wider will round off vertical and horizontal lines, up to bringing them into a circle (fisheye, or fisheye). It is the wide angle that creates the “presence effect”, and can also be used as a creative component of your project. An example of a lens from a photo.
- Standard Lenses - 50-70 millimeters of focal length. They have a standard angle of view, the easiest to manufacture, as well as the best-selling lenses of all time. Most of the photographs of the film era were taken precisely at 50mm focal length. An example of a lens from a photo.
- Telephoto lenses - Lenses that have an image magnification factor. Used for shooting distant objects, as well as for portraits with the correct proportions of faces. Also, telephoto lenses compress the perspective (background objects merge together in ecstasy). An example of a lens from a photo.
Lenses also exist in several of their iterations:
- Fixes - Lenses with a single focal length. For example, 50mm. And that's it. If you need to change the viewing angle, change the lens to another one. A typical ratio for a pair of lenses is 135mm and 50mm, 35mm и 85mm. Fixes have better sharpness and background blur, as well as less weight than zooms.
- Zuma - lenses with a set of focal lengths. Typical standard zooms are 24-105mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm. It is very convenient to take a zoom with you, or use a fast zoom to shoot everything. Usually, zooms have more weight than fixes, and a slightly lower quality picture, due to the large number of glasses in the lens. Also, the price of fast zooms and fast fixes can differ significantly.
Here you decide for yourself what is more convenient for you - a pair of lenses with a better picture, or a zoom with a camera, for protocol shooting or shooting where good background blur is not needed.
By the way, in lenses, the rule usually applies - the higher the price, the better the optics. Quality optics from Canon, for example, marked with an additional letter "L" (luxury). The high price of the lens is due to the complexity of the circuit, as well as the number of man-hours spent on glass melting, shaping, grinding and coating. Some types of glass are grown in the laboratory (fluorite). The lens consists of at least one element (monocle), but monocles are used in lomography mainly because they do not correct distortion. Massively such a product will not go. Usually 5-6 elements of the most diverse form. And for each form it is necessary to make equipment, and spend time processing these glass forms. The most common lens scheme is a tessar:
The circuit is ancient, but not expensive to manufacture, and your smartphone most likely uses exactly its likeness. Also, in lenses, as a rule, in the center, there is a mechanism that regulates the light flux to the matrix. This thing is called a diaphragm.
Diaphragm lens - a device that regulates the flow of light to the camera's matrix. The aperture increases the depth of field. Also, most lenses give a better and smoother picture if you use aperture. The camera mode in which we control only the depth of field with the aperture is called "Aperture Priority". On the mode selector, these are usually letters "A" - Aperture (aperture, aperture) or "Av" - Aperture value (aperture value).
The maximum value is the open aperture, usually indicated on the lens. Has the form 1.8/85, where f/1.8 is the maximum value. 1.8 - standard in modern times, high-aperture lens. Next come the more expensive ones. 1.4, 1.2. More expensive primarily because wider lenses are required to let in more light. Anything darker 1.8are usually cheaper. I deliberately don't specify what f/ is in front of the number. Until we get it. The f/ value is often referred to as the aperture ratio of the lens. So be it. Let's remember a few mantras:
- Than the lens brighter, the heavier and more expensive it is.
- A fast lens saves in low light conditions.
- A fast f/1.8 lens at wide aperture always blurs the background better than an f/2.8 lens.
- Depth of field at f/1.4 is always less than at f/1.8 and above.
Depth of field
Depth of field is a parameter that depends on the focal length of the lens and the aperture. For example, a telephoto lens, in addition to perspective compression, tends to blur the background better. Even if it is with low aperture. Just physics. At an open aperture, the depth of field is always small, thin. Therefore, when shooting wide open, you can sometimes find that only parts of the model's face are sharp. Depth of field in a photograph is one of the components of the image volume. Wide-angle and zoom lenses always have a large depth of field, and do not blur the background well. Unless it's a very fast (f/1.8, f/1.4) lens. For landscapes and street photography, use the maximum aperture. At maximum values, usually everything is sharp from 1 meter to the horizon [hyperfocal distance].
In turn, the combination of depth of field, [lens schemes] and its focal length, form bokeh.
Boke - this is the general character of the zone in which everything is blurry. It's usually in the background. Bokeh can be rough, hard, protocol, or soft, even, etc. Glare in the blur zone is converted into circles, the appearance of which depends on the shape of the aperture in most cases. A small number of polygonal aperture blades give a harsher bokeh character.
Focusing - This is focusing. To learn how to photograph, you need to understand that the picture must be in focus, or the sharpness was where necessary, the camera needs to be told what to make sharp. If we use a manual focus lens, then we aim where necessary with the knobs. In modern cameras, focusing occurs automatically, and only optionally - manually. Focusing should be done on the central (most pumped in inexpensive cameras) focus point, directing it to contrast transitions. The border between black and white is a classic contrast transition. In mirrorless cameras, the principle is the same - we either choose to focus on the face, or use the central focus area. Multi-zone focusing, as well as focusing using a large number of points, often fails - the camera will aim anywhere except what is actually needed. Especially if you use a fast lens with apertures brighter than f/2.8.
How to shoot, in what mode of the camera
Camera works on the program, taking into account the readings of the metering sensors, white balance, and so on. In modern mirrorless cameras, a separate sensor may not be used, since the image is always taken directly from the matrix. In the case of old DSLRs, this is far from the case. But not the point. The programs of the camera are different, and you can learn how to take pictures in any of them:
- P - software semi-automatic. Allows you to make exposure compensation, while all parameters are set by the camera
- Car - programmable machine - everything is taken by the camera, point and shoot
- M - manual mode - for atypical scenes in which it is necessary to control aperture and shutter speed separately. With adequate camera logic, it may not be used at all when shooting most scenes. More often required when shooting in a studio with artificial light; lack of lighting and other complex scenes.
- Av (A) - aperture priority. Depth of field control manually, by adjusting a single value, by closing or opening the aperture. It is more often used when shooting portraits and when working with manual optics.
- Tv (S, Sv) - Shutter priority. Used when shooting action scenes, for example. Only the shutter speed is adjustable.
Above are the main modes of cameras that have not changed since the beginning of the production of the first electronically controlled camera. Before the invention of the transistor, all cameras somehow had manual control (worked in M mode). After - there was a huge field for experimentation. Microcircuits and groups of microcircuits of varying complexity made it possible to create various exposure control programs. Learning to take pictures used to be much more difficult than it is now.
I will purposely not dwell on the “green zone” modes, since I believe that in order to learn how to photograph, for most subjects it is enough to set ISO Auto and switch the selector to either "Shutter/Shutter Priority Tv (S, Sv)", either in "Aperture priority Av (A)". So, in order to:
- Learn to photograph a portrait, it is better to use the Av (A) mode and control the depth of field manually
- Learn to photograph an object in motion with an unpredictable trajectory - it's easier to use continuous shooting with tracking autofocus in Tv mode (S, Sv)
- Capture a subject moving along a predictable path - continuous shooting in Tv mode
- In order to learn how to photograph macro, you can get by with the M mode - hold down the aperture as much as possible and use the external illumination of the object being shot.
As we read above, in order to learn how to photograph, it is enough to know two shooting modes, and at first give the ISO setting to the camera. Also, in the formation of the image, you must consider the following:
Proper white balance
This fact already in modern cameras does not require such a careful approach as before, since cameras have already taught to set the correct white balance. On older cameras, it was often possible to use Auto white balance» get an excessively warm or cold picture. However, in some situations, if it is noticeable that the photo may turn out with an incorrect white balance, nevertheless, you will have to use methods that have been working for a long time. One of the methods of correct measurement is the use of a gray card, or a blank white A4 sheet. The camera is aimed at the sheet, and the white balance is set according to it. Spoiler: in the photo, it must be absolutely identical to the natural one. Over time, experience comes, and already by eye you can set the white balance without resorting to third-party tools.
To learn photography, the technical aspects of photography require only time and skill to hone, but this is far from the most important part in photography. First of all, people will evaluate not how skillfully you set shutter speed or aperture, this usually remains behind the scenes, and not every person is interested. The picture either "enters" or it doesn't. And this requires pumping taste, processing skills, as well as some nuances of frame composition. Although, this is not always required. Usually, the worse it is filmed from a classical point of view, the better it is, in fact. If it's lomography. Some chips:
Simplify your frame
The most simplified and clean picture will be easier to perceive. Do not litter the frame with unnecessary details. And if it happened, then it’s better to remove all unnecessary things during post-processing.
Odd number of items
In order to make it easier for a person to determine the center of the composition, it is best to use an odd number of objects. The photo will look better if there is one apple in the frame, or three people. If the photo has an even number of objects, then it will overload the eye, and there will be a feeling of dissatisfaction with the picture.
Most photos always have a foreground, middle ground, and background. This, together with depth of field, creates volume in the frame. Often a photo can be made more "watchable" by adding something to the foreground when cropping. In this case, a sense of volume will appear, and the photo will look deeper than a photo without a foreground. You can control this feeling by playing with the size of the foreground elements.
Straight lines in the frame
Straight lines in the frame can enhance, or vice versa, shift the emphasis in the composition of the photo. The use of frames in the form of windows, doors, or arches is one of the techniques that allows you to diversify a series of photographs. This approach, among other things, can be used to create perspective and manage it in the image.
Shooting in RAW
Usually, as a result of a photograph, the output is a file of a non-editable JPG format. If we want to improve the picture later, we will face great difficulties. JPG files do not store information for later editing. Shooting in RAW, built into the category of a habit, not only simplifies the process of color editing, contrast, the number of lights and shadows for the final photo, but also allows you to take pictures with settings that are not quite correctly set. So, for example, even old cameras allow you to adjust the exposure in both directions by 1-2 steps, that is, 1-2 times.
And modern cameras allow you to do this up to 5 times in both directions. In addition, many operations, such as toning highlights and shadows, as well as painless editing of white balance, make this format simply indispensable when shooting. Its only drawback is the volume of files. For every megapixel, the file increases by a megabyte. Thus, if we have 24 megapixels in the camera, the file will weigh approximately 24 megabytes. In addition, when viewing, not all computers will be able to quickly display the RAW file on the screen. You can use programs for developing type Lightroom, Capture Oneor shoot in RAW+JPEG. With this setting, the RAW file will be duplicated by an easier version for viewing files in File Explorer.
Try in practice everything that you saw or learned, otherwise there will be no time later. For the first few weeks, I recommend taking your camera with you and shooting what you want to shoot. Walk more down the street, look at various objects from several angles, try lower angles and shoot from different distances. This is how you can understand what is required from the equipment in the future for creativity. You might want to try a different lens. Or pump processing. Or start seeing the light. It is better to carry the camera so that it is easy and quick to get it for shooting. It's better not to remove it at all. Simple plots, ordinary life in the frame - it's interesting. Something obvious - not always. It is worth at the same time to get a public page in order to post your photos there.
How to learn to take photos with a smartphone
How beautiful to take pictures on the phone, the task is quite feasible for any person. It is enough to follow a few simple rules:
Take care of the background
The background should be fairly clean, as on a phone, the lens sharpens most of the image. The color and texture of the background should not attract attention, as shifting the focus from the subject simply dissolves it in the photo.
Distance to the subject
When shooting with wide-angle smartphone lenses, it is important to control the distance to the subject, as a wide angle tends to stretch the edges of the photo, as well as distort the proportions of faces. Due to the large depth of field, you should not go too far, as the subject can be lost against the colorful background. For example, when photographing in the forest. The best distance is around two to four meters, then the distortion is the least noticeable in the photo. The distance to the background is better to keep large than the distance to the subject.
How to take a beautiful selfie on your phone
To do this, it should be borne in mind that the photo should not contain only the face or head. Such photos are usually taken by lashmakers and makeup artists in order to demonstrate the result of their work. In addition, the face in such photographs is obtained with distorted proportions. As soon as you move the camera away a little, everything changes, because not only the face, but also the shoulders, as well as the torso itself, already get into the frame. Distortions become not so noticeable, and they no longer spoil the frame.
The camera of a smartphone and a phone, if we draw a parallel with the camera, works in the “P” mode (software machine), and then, using built-in algorithms, applies blur or sharpness filters, depending on
scab camera quality. If the camera is wrong, you can make adjustments to the algorithm. Usually they are made by pressing the display in the sun area (near the central focus frame on the screen). Pulled down - made it darker, pulled up - brightened the image.
In order to build perspective and align the frame, it is not necessary to draw guides mentally - just turn on the camera grid lines in the smartphone settings. The same is available for the viewfinders of various cameras. The display image will be divided into equal rectangular areas. The grid appears in the form of a 3x3 tile, and allows, depending on the settings, to shoot based on diagonal lines. With such a grid, it is easier to build a composition by following the rule of thirds. An attractive composition of the frame makes the photo clearer for perception.
Using a tripod
When shooting in low-light conditions, the smartphone slows down the shutter speed in order to get a brighter picture. However, this is often not enough to shoot handheld. Shutters at slow speeds can't freeze the picture as it should. It is better to use a tripod, stabilizer, or self-timer. Using a timer with a tripod is the best combination.
Often, a smartphone camera can incorrectly focus in the frame. This is due to some features of the cameras, therefore, when focusing, it is necessary to choose points at which the object has contrast transitions. It is imperative that these transitions are in the same plane with the area that needs to be shown sharply. For example, the border between black and white is a classic example of a contrast transition (difference).
Unique shooting angle
Shooting from a unique, unexpected angle of view can make photographs more memorable by giving the illusion of height or depth to objects. Try taking a shot straight up and playing with the sky in negative space.
How to take good pictures with your phone
In order to take beautiful pictures with your phone, just follow some of the following tips:
The cameras of phones, smartphones, and cameras are very fond of light. Also, some cameras perfectly capture the transition from light to shadow. Use this technique to improve the depth of your photo and give it dimension. Stand by the window and determine which configuration will have a more interesting picture on your face. (Usually, with side light from a window). If it is necessary to illuminate the face evenly, it is best to turn to face the window. But direct sunlight should be avoided, as it is a hard light that neither the skin nor the camera likes. It is better to determine the boundary of the passage of the sun's rays, and stand a millimeter from the sun's ray itself. The result will pleasantly surprise you. Covering the window with a white thick cloth can soften the harsh rays of the sun, and the use of tulle can create a beautiful patterned effect on the face. the use of soft, diffused light is nicely displayed on the skin.
In order not to get stray light on the face, it is necessary to choose among uniformly filled, unfriendly to skin tones, colors, windows or spots of light. For example, it has long been known that shooting in the shade of trees gives the skin a green tint. This can be corrected by finding an opening with light coming from outside. In this case, the skin will return to its healthy tone, and the surroundings and background will remain green. The ideal is to use a photograph with neutral colors - against a white background, or in an environment of gray walls. You can also use the property of light to reflect off surfaces to get a more correct image in terms of colors.
If you use the so-called golden clock in the morning or evening, you can make unforgettably delicate portraits. The golden hour is the hour before dawn and the hour after it, and within the hour before/after sunset. At this point, the model's sun-facing skin has a nice warm undertone, while the surroundings are still, or already, cool undertones. In addition, the lack of direct sunlight makes the picture plastic. At this time, an interestingly selected composition will even allow the model to be slightly illuminated along the contour by the cold environment itself, creating also a color highlight.
You can also skillfully use cloudy weather to shoot portraits with intense diffused light. When the sun sets behind the clouds, it turns out to be a large diffuser. It is advisable to do this when the sun is also closer to the horizon. The effect is roughly comparable to shooting at a golden watch, only in the environment there is also an additional volume without rough shadows.
Use the shortcomings of the wide-angle lenses of your smartphone or phone to your advantage. Raise the camera and take a photo of yourself from above. The folds of the chin will be removed, and the face itself will be more elongated. The eyes will become more expressive. Work with angles, choosing the best one, moving your head and taking test shots. Experiment. If you raise the phone just above the chest, you can get a narrowed figure. If you still turn in profile, and put your foot on your toe, then you can even use one eclair more for dinner. You can read about the background and other things above.
How to start your career as a photographer?
- How to start a career as a photographer? Part 1, general
- Part 2. Shooting nightlife in a club, "club photographer"
- Part 3. How to shoot weddings, corporate parties, anniversaries
- Part 4. Kindergartens, schools, institutes
- Part 5. Love story, individual photo sessions
- Part 6. Children's photography
- Part 7. Events of various formats
- Part 8. Start with cooperation
- Part 9. Personal brand
- Part 10
- Part 11. Dress code at the event
- Part 12. Communication and Non-Verbalism
- Part 13
- Part 14. Share photos with everyone!
- Part 15. So, you are a photographer. Where is the extra income coming from?
- 15.1. Food shooting
- 15.2. subject, catalog
- 16. Interior. Interior photography and photo editing
- Life hack for an introvert photographer. Part 1. Working with a couple. Blanks
- Life hack for an introvert photographer. Part 2. Working with the model in private
- Life hack for an introvert photographer. Part 3. Nightmare level - family shooting, but the family is big
- Selection of location, time and props
- How is the wedding day. Preparation, shooting.
If this was not enough, I recommend the following sections:
- Self-paced online photography course, Easy level
- Self-paced online photography course, Nightmare level
If everyone has read it and nothing is clear, I can conduct an individual course on introduction to photography. We will work through all the moments online, via Whatsapp or other means of communication. The cost of the lesson is 3000 rubles. Welcome to PM.